Ellie in Paris Tips

Having now been based in Paris for almost a year and a half, and having made it my mission to explore as much of it as I can, I’ve put together my authoritative list of monuments, museums, restaurants, bars, rooftops, places to walk around, shops to grab a book or a great coffee. 

These are all based on my tastes, my experiences and where I live - so you can expect tips that are totally subjective and won’t please everybody. However, I hope they inspire you to discover new parts of Paris and have a very good time while you’re at it. 

My tastes are classic - in the sense of art and architecture - with a splash of glamour. I always revere the historic, somewhere with a view and an experience from which I can learn something. 

Please feel free to forward this list on to anyone who is visiting Paris anytime soon and follow me on Instagram here.

These are the ones worth visiting.

🏛️ Palais Royal - 1ème

A fun spot to walk around and take photos. The garden is delightful in spring (the magnolias in bloom are to die for).

🏛️ Tuilerie Gardens and Le Louvre - 1ème

These traditional gardens are a must, there’s nowhere quite like them in the city in terms of formal gardens, views and grandeur. Approach from Place de La Concorde for the best experience leading up to the Louvre courtyard. The Louvre dazzles at dusk, make sure to be there as the sunsets and into the night. There’s truly never a bad time to visit. 

🏛️ Walk from the Louvre inner courtyard out over Pond des Arts towards L’Institut de France. From there wander down Rue de Seine for drinks and dinner. 

🏛️ l’Arc de Triomphe - 8ième

Get out of the metro station (one of the few that has a loo), take your photo in the middle of the road and then walk east towards ⤵️

🏛️ From Le Champs Élysées walk around Le Grand Palais, Le Petit Palais, walk over Pond Alexandre III and onto Les Invalides. It’s a beautiful photogenic circuit that ticks off a lot of the big hitters. 

🏛️ Opera Garnier - 9ième

Very much worth doing the tour which brings the building and history to life. The gift shop is expensive but fantastic. Then trot down to Place Vendôme for one of the most beautiful squares in Paris. 

🏛️ Eiffel Tower - 7ième

Don’t go up it, there are better views elsewhere. View it from Trocadéro or walk around the bottom at night to witness the sparkles as it is magic, whatever people say. For the best photos head to Pond de Bir Hakim in the 16th.

🏛️ The Luxembourg Gardens - 5ième / 6ième 

One of the most beautiful green spaces in the city. Good for meandering, reading a book, sailing a boat, riding a pony or having a picnic. Just don’t sit on the grass! Formerly the home of Catherine de Medici and Henri IV (hence the palace right at the top). 

🏛️ La Tour Montparnasse - 6ième / 15ième

Offers sensational views of the city and a great introduction to its history.

🏛️ Sacré Coeur - 18ième 

Make a morning of it that starts with picking up delicious foodie treats on Rue de Martyrs and then winding your way up through Pigalle. 

Places to while away an afternoon and maybe grab a snack between drinks. 

🍷 La Palette - 6ème 

Trot down from Pond des Arts. Then on for dinner at Freddy’s. 

🍷 Le Recrutement - 7ème  

Heavenly Eiffel Tower views from the street and always busy with a fun vibe. At the top of a very chic street which is excellent for shopping, Rue St Dominique. 

🍷 Le Bonaparte - 6ième 

Much less crammed than the very touristy Cafe Flore and Les Deux Magots nearby, but still on the square in St Germain des Près. Pop inside the church, it's a beauty!

🍷 Le Fumoir - 1ème 

Directly across from the Louvre, the location is sensational. Before 7pm is the best best, as then they start serving dinner and it becomes more formal. 

🍷 The Bombardier - 5ième 

An English pub with style in Paris, if that’s what you’re looking for. 

🍷 Chez Camille - 18ème 

This hidden gem loved and frequented by local is equal parts batty and fantastic. Make sure to try a Moscow Mule and/or their smoking absinthe shots.

This list is designed for art lovers with just a few days in the city. 

🖼️ Hotel de la Marine - 1ème

A major historic building exquisitely redone to bring to life the era of Louis XV. Worth it for views over Place de la Concorde alone. Go for lunch at Cafe de la Perouse afterwards followed by a walk through the Tuileries to Le Louvre. 

🖼️ Le Louvre - 1ème (closed Tuesdays)

It will be busy and you will have to queue. Don’t bother with La Mona Lisa, it’s a complete let down. Always look up, the ceilings are exquisite. 

🖼️ Musée d’Orsay - 1ème (closed Mondays)

A classic for good reason. This former railway station is both a beautiful building and home to one of the world’s most impressive collections of 19th century art. For the all the big hitter impressionists head to the 4th floor. 

🖼️ Musée Rodin - 7ième

An unbeatable combination of stunning house, beautiful gardens and impressive art. Walking distance from Les Invalides. Spring and autumn are the ideal times. Do get the audio guide.

🖼️ Musée Bourdelle - 15ième

A relatively unknown museum that is a complete gem (as well as free for its permanent collection). Tour the home, workshop and gardens of the sculptor who was a protegee of Rodin and went on to inspire Matisse and Giacometti.

🖼️ Fondation Louis Vuitton - 16ième 

I don’t love the building (despite it being iconic) and it’s a faff to get there, but the exhibitions (modern and contemporary) it puts on can be excellent and attract a truly global crowd and lots of noise.

🖼️ Musée Mormottan Monet - 16ième 

A must for Monet lovers. Not easy to get to but the underground Monet gallery rivals L’Orangerie in my opinion. 

🖼️ Musée, Carnavalet - 3ième

Free entry and great for an overview of Paris and its history. 

🖼️ Musée Nissim de Camondo - 8ième 

One of the great historical house museums of Paris. Make sure to read the Edmund de Waal book Letters to Camondo’ first, it will highly elevate your visit

🖼️ La Bourse de Commerce (Pinault Collection) - 1ème

I'm personally not a fan of the collection (at all) but the building's interiors and incredible 19th century 360-degree frescoes are well worth the entrance cost.

I will never try all the good restaurants in Paris, but these are the ones I like the most (so far) and which I go back to time and time again.

🍽️ Le Bon George - 9ième 

Classic French bistro that won’t disappoint. Good and wine are excellent. More expensive than most but for good reason. 

🍽️ Django - 9ième 

Great for small plates / tapas at the counter alongside delicious cocktails. 

🍽️ Frenchie - 9ième 

Small, charming and always busy with absolutely delicious food. The young staff can be a little hapless but mean very well, so if in doubt repeat your order. 

🍽️ Le Petit Lutetia - 6ième   

Glam bistro with a chic crowd and classic French food, just minutes from Bon Marche. 

🍽️ Chez Janou - 3ième 

A Provençal restaurant which has garnered cult status. Booking in advance is essential but difficult as they never pick up the phone. The lady on the door needs to be charmed and not harassed, so tread carefully. The chocolate mousse is iconic. 

🍽️ Georgette - 6ième 

A classic little family-run restaurant just metres from the Rue Fleurus exit of The Luxembourg Gardens. 

🍽️ Pantobaguette - 18ième

This low-key trendy restuarant serves absoutely delicious and hyper-local (and very originial) food at excptionally good value. Frequented by locals and foodies.

🍽️ Restaurant Paul - 1ème

Classic spot on the beautiful Place Dauphine, a hidden gem of a square just off Le Pont Neuf and very close to Notre Dame. 

🍽️ Brasserie Martin - 11ième 

Guaranteed great food at good value with a fun vibe in the centre of the 11th. Just down the street from Chez Nous, a trendy organic wine bar. 

🍽️ Brasserie des Pres - 6ième 

Gorgeous location in a pretty arcade just off Odeon in St Germain des Près. Part of the same group as Brasserie Martin. 

🍽️ Le Café de l’Odeon - 6ième 

On sunny days (check in advance whether it’s open) this historic square home to a famous theatre has a bistro set up outside. If it’s just the location you’re after, there’s also an upscale fish restaurant just opposite. 

🍽️ Hôtel Amour - 9ième 

The most charming courtyard restaurant with romantic lighting and fun interiors. Fab spot following a trot down Rue des Martyrs on your foodie safari. 

🍽️ La Fontaine de Mars - 7ième 

Made famous by the Obamas as one of the places they dined when in town, this is a scenic spot walking distance from the Eiffel Tower in a lovely setting with a famous fountain. It’s talking distance down Rue St Dominique from Le Recrutement if you fancy drinks there first. If you can’t get in, the bistro next door is fab and has the same setting. 

🍽️ Freddy’s - 6ième 

Fun vibe and delicious food where everyone eats at the counter. There’s always a queue and you can’t book, so go at 6.30pm for a guaranteed table. Just down the road from La Palette so you can also have a drink there while you wait. Get the salmon, you won't regret it.

🍽️ Georges - 3ième 

Fantastic restaurant at the very top of Le Pompidou. Quite upscale but not formal and the views are fantastic. Go now as th whole building is closing for renovation soon.

🍽️ Le Comptoir Général - 10ième

Very fun spot for dates, group dinners or drinks that turn into dancing. Perfect if you’re exploring the trendy Canal St Martin area. 

🍽️ Café Laperouse - 8ième 

Glam and upmarket with beautiful interiors that make you feel you’re in a jewel box and / or on the set of Emily in Paris (yes they filmed here, but after I 'discovered' it thanks to a friend in the know). I am yet to have a better smash burger or Bloody Mary in Paris. Perfect for lunch after a visit to Hotel de la Marine and before heading to the Louvre via The Tuileries Gardens. 

🍽️ Ana Siam - 19ième

The most authentic Thai restaurant I’ve ever come across. Feels like you’re in Bangkok in the best possible way. Expect to sit on plastic stools. 

🍽️ Le Florence en l’Ile - 4ième 

Fairly standard brasserie food but what makes this spot special is its location overlooking the Seine and Pont Saint-Louis. Try and get the last table outside that overlooks the water. Another EiP spot.

These much-hyped eateries need booking months in advance. 

🍽️ La Tour d’Argent - 5ième

For lovers of good food and even better wine. A gourmet institution. 

🍽️ Café Marly - 1ème 

Service can vary but the views over the Louvre pyramid are pretty unbeatable. 

🍽️ Septime - 11ième

Michelin-starred dining in a cool and contemporary unpretentious setting.

🍽️ Loulou’s - 1ème

The place to eat for fashionistas and the glam squad in general with unreal Tuilerie Garden-facing location. Very hard to get into whatever time of year you try. 

🍽️ Marsan by Helen Darroze - 6ième 

Small and tucked away, this is the place for serious gourmets who aren’t looking for bells and whistles or lots of glamour, but rather a true dedication to craft.

🍽️ Hôtel Particular - 18ième 

In the summer months eat al fresco tucked away in this beautiful courtyard of what was formerly a private home. 

Very few places in Paris serve coffee the way Anglo-Saxons want it. These places do.

☕️ Beans on Fire - 11ième 

Situated on a nice leafy square with a few bars, restaurants, lovely vibe and nearby park. 

☕️ Comptoirs Richard - 6ième 

Make sure to grab an amazing Popelini chou opposite. 

☕️ Noir - chain, various locations 

☕️ Ten Belles - chain, various locations

☕️ The Coffee - chain, various locations

Much in demand and little in supply, it sometimes feels impossible to book a spot at a Parisian rooftop. FYI, many of these need weeks, if not month’s, notice for reservations. 

🌃 Giraffe - 16ième

The preferred spot for Leonardo di Caprio and the international jet set. Excellent Eiffel Tower views. 

🌃 Perruche - 9ième 

Chic restaurant with a whopping view located at the top of Primtemps department store. Walking distance to l’Opera Garnier. 

🌃 Hôtel Arts & Métier - 3ième 

A very cool cocktail bar set in a Herbarium on the rooftop of a boutique hotel in the heart of Le Marais. FYI - Doesn’t serve food. 

🌃 Dame des Art Hotel - 6ième 

Located in a very chic boutique hotel, this is the place for cocktails with incredible views and a sexy vibe. 

🌃 Le Rooftop at The Peninsula Hotel - 16ième 

Enjoy drinks and small plates at this chic rooftop with an incredible view and service to match. Open from 4pm and there’s a minimum spend of €60 per person. 

🌃 Maggie at Hotel Rochechouart - 9ième 

The most affordable on the list. Great views out over all of Paris, including the Eiffel Tower. Head to Hotel Amour for dinner after a sunset drink. 

A few select spots for pre or post dinner fun and games. 

💃 Bar Hemingway at Le Ritz - 1ème 

The classic. Very small so get there early for a guaranteed spot at the bar. 

💃 Chez Nous - 11ième 

Trendy and low-key organic wine bar where you won’t find tourists (yet).  

💃 Bambou - 2ième

Beautiful and classy courtyard with outdoor and indoor seating for cocktails and/or dinner. Has a sexy and elegant vibe. 

💃 Rosa Bonheur - 7ième (and other locations)

The only place in central Paris where big groups can show up unannounced and get a table. Expect rosé on tap and yummy pizzas, but queues for both. Banging on a Thursday and Saturday night. Feel free to get on the boat opposite for dancing into the early hours, but it gets sweaty, crowded and hot. 

💃 Rue Princesse - 6ième 

The place to go after midnight for dancing and general merriment until the early hours. Choose from a range of similar bars.

💃 The Hoxton - 2ième

Very fun for great cocktails and dancing after about 9pm. Very popular and always busy. 

💃 Mikado Dancing at Hotel Rochechouart - 9ième 

A secret basement club where good DJs can help you dance until dawn. Great cocktails too.

🍽️ La Mabillon - 6ième

The place for post-party snacks, this classic brasserie located on Boulevard St Germain is open 24 hours a day.  

Places to trot around and enjoy, for nothing more than they’re lovely to look at. 

🚶 Père la Chaise Cemetery - 11ième 

A great walk, a haven of greenery and home to some big names.

🚶 Rue des Martyrs - 9ième

Foodie heaven. Head there on weekend mornings for non-stop snacking. 

🚶 Place des Vosges - 4ième

One of the most beautiful and grandest squares in Paris (pre Haussman).

🚶 Île St Louis - 4ième

Quiet narrow streets give this island next to Notre Dame a quaint and local feel. 

🚶 Place Saint Victoire - 1ème

Some of the most photogenic squares and backstreets can be found in this area. 

🚶 Place Dauphine - 1ème

A unique triangular-shaped square tucked just off Pond Neuf and close to Notre Dame. A lovely spot for a drink or lunch, or simply to pass through on your way between the Left and Right banks.  

🚶 Canal St Martin - 10ième

Where the cool kids hang out. In good weather expect deck chairs and groups having drinks al fresco alongside the full stretch of the canal. Chilled and laid back. 

Places to pick up an English holiday read.

📚 The Red Wheelbarrow - 6ième

A delightful store just off The Luxembourg Gardens.

📚 Shakespeare & Company - 5ième

Cult but for good reason. Expect a short queue. Opposite Notre Dame.

📚 Galignani - 1ème 

The oldest English bookshop on the continent. Close to the Tuileries Gardens and Le Louvre.