Everything I love about the Luberon: A personal guide to this extraordinary region
After thirty-five summers, the Luberon feels like the book I know the best but still want to reread every year.
A limestone spine through the heart of Provence, it’s a landscape of villages perchés, market days, untouristy vineyards and sun-faded farmhouses. My family is from this region and this is the corner I’ve always come back to, the one that feels most like home.
Over the years, I’ve collected favourite wild-swimming spots, cobbled squares worth long-lunching in, roads I’ll take for no other reason than I really like them and quite a lot of opinions that don’t match the guidebooks. I’ve changed my mind about some places, become stubbornly loyal to others and somehow still find something new and fab every summer.
Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence helped shape how generations of English-speaking travellers imagined this part of France. Inevitably, everyone ends up with their own version of the Luberon. This is mine.
In this guide
• Provence and the Luberon: what is the difference?
• Getting there and getting around
• Where to base yourself
• The villages I would visit
• Forcalquier
• The landscape through the seasons
• Wild swimming
• Hotels I would consider
• Day trips outside the Luberon
• When to go
• What to read and watch
• The most important advice
• My perfect Luberon day
• Map of the places in this guide
Provence and the Luberon: what's the difference?
Provence:
A much larger historical and cultural region of south-eastern France. It stretches far beyond the places in this guide and includes several very different landscapes and identities.
The Luberon:
A mountain massif and regional natural park within Provence. The park covers parts of Vaucluse and Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and brings together the areas around Apt, Cavaillon, Pertuis, Manosque and Forcalquier.
This guide: In this guide I cover the Luberon itself, plus a small number of useful gateways, hotels and day trips outside it. I have marked those clearly as the distinction matters. Visiting the Luberon does not mean you have “done” Provence; equally, a general trip to Provence does not necessarily include the Luberon. Getting there and getting around
Route & Practicalities
Air: Marseille Provence Airport is the closest major airport for most international arrivals.
TGV: Avignon TGV is usually best for the western and central Luberon. Aix-en-Provence TGV works well for Forcalquier and the eastern side.
Regional train: Cavaillon and Manosque can be useful, depending on your base, but neither removes the need for a car.
Car: Essential. The smaller roads, unplanned stops and freedom to change direction are part of the experience, not simply transport between sights.
Where to base yourself
Forcalquier as a base:
Choose Forcalquier if you want a proper town rather than a small village. It is lived-in, attractive and
practical without feeling over-polished. It is the best base for exploring Haute-Provence and the eastern
side of the Luberon.
Bonnieux, Ménerbes or Oppède-le-Vieux:
For a village or villa stay, my preference is the area around Bonnieux, Ménerbes and Oppède-le-Vieux.
You are close to many of the classic hilltop villages, but can still disappear into the countryside. Overall, I would choose one good base rather than moving hotel every night. The villages I would visit:
Many of the villages below are villages perchés: old settlements built high on rocky spurs or hillsides for
defence. Their steep lanes, compact stone houses and views over the surrounding country are part of
what gives the Luberon its unique character.
Gordes
Gordes is famous for a reason. The first view of the village, built into the hillside in tiers of pale stone, is
genuinely otherworldly, particularly towards sunset.
It can be busy, especially on market day, but I would still recommend visiting on any trip to the Luberon. Walk through the village, then continue to the twelfth-century Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque - one of Provence’s famous "Three Cistercian Sisters" - in the valley below. In lavender season (June to early July), it gets incredibly photogenic (and popular).
Ménerbes
Ménerbes is elegant without feeling like a film set. Its position along a rocky ridge gives you wonderful
views on both sides, and it is one of the villages I return to most. Peter Mayle lived nearby and set much of his writing in this landscape. His famous book A Year in Provence was written while living here. Another of his books was the inspiration behind the film A Good Year directed by Ridley Scott and the vineyard scenes were filmed nearby.
Close to Ménerbes, on the road towards Lacoste, the Abbaye Saint-Hilaire is a former Carmelite convent
with medieval origins. It's the kind of discovery that makes the Luberon feel inexhaustible.
Oppède-le-Vieux
Oppède-le-Vieux is not the same place as Oppède, the modern village below. This is the older village
perché: romantic and slightly wild, rising above vineyards and woodland, with stone houses, ruins and
the church of Notre-Dame-d’Alydon above it. Walking up to the top and back through cobbled lanes
feels like the Luberon’s answer to Angkor Wat.
If you visit in August, look for the Concerts au Coucher de Soleil. Opera in this landscape, as the light disappears, is incredibly special.
Lacoste
Lacoste has magnificent views and the ruined château associated with the Marquis de Sade. SCAD
Lacoste has restored many village buildings as studios, galleries and student residences, so the place
now feels partly like an art campus.
Some people love that creative energy. I do not particularly love the village as it feels a little hollow and
stripped of its original purpose. However, the setting, château and history still make it worth seeing,
particularly if you are already travelling between Bonnieux and Ménerbes.
Bonnieux
Bonnieux climbs up the hillside with views across the valley towards the Monts de Vaucluse. It is lively
enough for lunch or coffee and works extremely well as a base. I don’t think it’s the prettiest of the
villages and towns in the region, but the views from inside are fantastic – especially over to Lacoste.
The roads between Bonnieux, Ménerbes and Oppède-le-Vieux are among my favourites anywhere in
Provence, especially in poppy and lavender seasons. Do not rush them.
Saignon
Saignon sits above Apt and feels smaller and calmer than the better-known villages. Come for an
unhurried lunch, a walk and the view rather than a list of sights. Its fountain, in the main square, is one
of the most picturesque in the region.
Lourmarin
Lourmarin sits on the southern side of the massif and has a little more movement: boutiques, café
terraces and a Renaissance château, as well as a great market. It works well if you want a village with
more going on around you.
For literature fans, you may wish to visit the grave of Albert Camus, the author of L’Etranger.
Roussillon and Rustrel
Roussillon is known for its red and orange ochre landscape. The Sentier des Ocres gives you a
concentrated version close to the village; the Colorado Provençal at Rustrel is larger and wilder.
Take water, wear shoes that can cope with the dust and check access conditions in summer, when fire-
risk restrictions may affect natural sites.
Venasque
Built on a steep rocky spur, it is the village that looks like a medieval dream as you approach it from the
surrounding roads. If you can drive past it on the way to Gordes, you’re on one of the area’s most scenic
roads; at times it feels like a car advert, especially at dusk. Forcalquier
Forcalquier is a handsome, working town and an excellent base for the quieter eastern side of this
guide. The streets climb towards the Citadelle, and the surrounding country feels more open and less
manicured than the villages around Gordes. Use it to visit Mane, Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire and
Manosque.
The nearby Centre d’Astronomie in Saint-Michel-de-l’Observatoire runs public observations,
planetarium sessions and summer events. Looking through a telescope with English commentary after a
day of villages and swimming is a good example of how much this seemingly sleepy region contains.
Landscape through the seasons
Spring brings blossom and poppies. Lavender follows in June and July, sunflowers arrive later in summer, and autumn changes the vineyards and trees. Even the drives feel different from one month to the next.
Poppies
Late May into early June is usually the best time for poppies. They appear in vivid red drifts along roadsides, between vineyards and across uncultivated fields, often when the landscape is still green and before the full heat of summer arrives. The scene of them in such great numbers swaying in an early summer breeze is surreal.
Lavender
Late June into early July is usually my favourite time. The days are long, the school holidays have not quite begun and lavender is appearing across the landscape.
For the great sweeps of purple, the Plateau de Valensole is outside the Luberon to the east, but easy to add to a longer trip. Wherever you stop, remember that lavender fields are working farms: stay at the edges and do not damage the crop. For another great place to photograph Mont Ventoux in the background, try the fields just outside Velleron.
Ochre
The ochres around Roussillon and Rustrel are completely different from the pale stone and green hills elsewhere. They are worth including precisely because they show the geological variety of the Luberon.
Wild swimming
The distances matter here. Étang de la Bonde is a genuinely local Luberon swim. The other places below are full-day excursions, and whether they are sensible depends on which side of the Luberon you are
staying. Wherever you swim, check local water quality, access, weather and fire restrictions on the day. Conditions can change quickly.
Étang de la Bonde - in the Luberon
This is the easiest option for an afternoon swim without turning the day into an expedition. The lake is in the southern Luberon, near La Motte-d’Aigues. Water levels and swimming conditions vary, so check locally before setting off.
Gorges du Verdon and Lac de Sainte-Croix - from the eastern Luberon
From Forcalquier or another eastern base, allow a full day. Take a picnic, hire a kayak, pedalo or electric boat at Lac de Sainte-Croix and enter the first part of the gorge. A trip to the stunning village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie works well before or after the water. This is not a realistic day trip from the western Luberon, particularly in high summer.
Lac de Serre-Ponçon - from the eastern Luberon
Farther north, Lac de Serre-Ponçon is a vast turquoise lake surrounded by the Southern Alps. Go for
swimming, boating, kayaking, paddleboarding or a quiet cove. It is well outside the Luberon and deserves a full day. I would only suggest it from Forcalquier or the eastern side.
Pont du Gard and the Gardon - from the western Luberon
The Gardon beneath the Pont du Gard is a memorable place to kayak and swim, with the Roman
aqueduct above you. Combine it with Uzès for a full day from a western base.
The Pont du Gard is west of the Rhône, in the Gard rather than Provence, and is too far for a relaxed day trip from the eastern Luberon.
Gorges du Toulourenc - check before travelling
The Gorges du Toulourenc, north of Mont Ventoux, are beautiful and widely known as a place for walking in the water. I am including them because people will encounter the recommendation elsewhere, but I would not currently present them as an uncomplicated swimming spot. Instead it’s more of a hiking trail mixed with swimming in wild pools, with very fresh water. However, it is absolutely wonderful for active travellers.
The Parc naturel régional du Mont-Ventoux sometimes advises against aquatic walking and bathing
because the site is fragile and can be affected by water-quality problems and sudden flooding. Check the
latest official guidance and access restrictions; if that advice remains in place, choose another swim.
Hotels I would consider
These are not ranked. They are the hotels I think are interesting, beautiful or particularly well placed for this trip.
Forcalquier | Best for: individuality, art and staying in a proper town.
A restored fifteenth-century hôtel particulier with five guest rooms and a strong connection to art, music and dance. It feels rooted in Forcalquier rather than imposed upon it. Basil, the owner and wonderful host, makes your stay with his knowledge, local connections and character.
Mane | Best for: a serious spa stay.
A five-star hotel and L’Occitane spa in a former convent, surrounded by the landscapes of Haute-Provence. For those looking for serious pampering.
Lauris | Best for: vineyards, gardens and long lunches.
An eighteenth-century Provençal bastide on a wine estate with pool, restaurant and spa. It’s polished, but the landscape and agriculture give it a strong sense of place. I would classify this as a perfect Provençal boutique hotel.
Oppède | Best for: wellbeing and quiet.
Part of the Fontenille collection, but a separate hotel with its own identity. It is a more intimate, wellbeing-focused hideaway in a restored hamlet. Perfect for those looking to get away from everyone and everything for some proper peace and quiet.
Bonnieux | Best for: views and a highly designed version of Provence.
Many people love it; I do not. The views across the Petit Luberon are wonderful, but I find it too composed and less alive than the places I fall for. It remains well positioned and may suit you if you prefer a polished five-star resort experience.
Near Ménerbes | Best for: vineyards and a traditional country-house atmosphere.
It sits between Ménerbes and Bonnieux. It works particularly well if wine, long lunches and a secluded setting are central to the trip. The scenery around you is stunning, including a beautiful mature Provençal terrace garden.
Gordes | Best for: grandeur, theatre and one of the best views in the village.
This is the grand, unapologetically lavish choice – it doesn’t get much better than this in the region. It’s
not subtle, but neither is the position; the views are simply incredible. A restaurant scene in the Provence episode of Emily in Paris was filmed on the hotel’s terrace. Expect buzz and a crowd that likes to be seen.
The following hotels are useful additions, but they are not in the Luberon.
Hôtel Crillon le Brave — outside the Luberon
Near Mont Ventoux | Best for: a panoramic hotel stay on the western side of a longer trip.
The hotel occupies a cluster of old village houses and has far-reaching views. I would consider it before or after the Luberon, rather than describe it as a Luberon hotel.
La Mirande — outside the Luberon
Avignon | Best for: a beautiful first or final night near the Palais des Papes.
It is a historic, highly individual hotel in the centre of Avignon decorated with impeccable taste. Stay
here before collecting a car or after returning one; Avignon is a gateway to this guide, not part of the Luberon.
La Divine Comédie — outside the Luberon
Avignon | Best for: a smaller, more private stay in the historic centre.
A characterful guest house with a large garden, hidden close to the Palais des Papes. It also works as the beginning or end of the journey.
Day trips outside the Luberon
From the western Luberon: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue sits just outside the Luberon and is the place to go for antiques, brocante and the permanent dealers clustered around the town. Plan around the principal market and antiques opening
days rather than assuming everything will be open throughout the week.
From the western Luberon: Uzès and the Pont du Gard
Pair Uzès with the Pont du Gard. Spend the morning in the charming historical market town, then kayak
or swim in the Gardon beneath the Roman aqueduct. This is a strong full-day trip from the western
Luberon; I would not attempt it from Forcalquier or the east.
From the western Luberon: Arles
Arles is another western excursion rather than something to add from an eastern base. Go for the Roman monuments, including an amphitheatre, the old centre and the city’s connections to Van Gogh; give it a day rather than trying to fold it into a village itinerary.
From the north-western Luberon: Mont Ventoux, the Dentelles and the wine villages
This route crosses several neighbouring landscapes rather than one single park. Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Beaumes-de-Venise and Vacqueyras are the wine stops; Séguret, Vaison-la-Romaine, Suzette and Le Barroux add perched villages and history; Malaucène, Caromb and Bédoin take you around Mont Ventoux.
Do not attempt every place in one day. Choose a wine-focused route or a Mont Ventoux circuit, then leave room for the roads and views.
When to go
Late June to early July: My first choice: very long days, lavender beginning to appear and the largest summer crowds not yet in place. The light is one of the reasons to come. Around the end of June,
evenings seem to last forever and the stone turns gold, pink and purple.
May: Blossom, poppies, walking weather and cooler temperatures.
July: Lavender and beautiful evenings, becoming hotter and busier as the month continues.
August: Heat, sunflowers, festivals and animated evenings. Can be very quiet as most French tourists are on the coast.
Autumn: Calmer roads, good walking weather and colour in the vineyards and trees.
Winter: Striking in its own way, but not my recommendation for a first visit. Many of the experiences in this guide are seasonal. What to read and watch
• A Year in Provence, by Peter Mayle. Mayle lived near Ménerbes, and this account of his first year in a Luberon farmhouse shaped how generations of English-speaking readers imagined Provence.
• La Gloire de mon père, by Marcel Pagnol. Pagnol’s childhood memoir belongs to the hills around Marseille rather than the Luberon, but it is the ultimate primer on the Provençal imagination: landscape, family, heat, pride and long summer days.
• Jean Giono. Read him for Haute-Provence: a tougher, more elemental landscape and a useful counterpoint to the polished image of the region.
• Emily in Paris: “Ex-en-Provence”. The episode was filmed across the Luberon, including Gordes, Bonnieux, Buoux and Apt. Watch it for the landscape rather than geographical precision. The most important advice
• Hire a car. Without one, you lose the small roads, spontaneous stops and much of the point of the trip.
• Choose one base. You do not need to move every night.
• Plan less. Remove one thing from each day before you set off.
• Use the smaller roads. The drives are part of the experience.
• Make lunch the main event. Save time for the three-hour version. This is preferable to driving out to dinner, as it saves long drives back in the dark on windy country roads.
• Follow what you find. Stop for the view, enter the museum you had not heard of and ask what is happening in the local church that evening.
• Do not confuse seeing four villages with understanding the Luberon. It rewards return visits and people who want to experience a way of living, not collect places.
Most destinations become smaller the more you know them. The Luberon becomes bigger. Every trip
reveals another abbey, road, hotel, walk, swimming spot or way of seeing a ruin in a particular light.
My perfect Luberon day
I do not get up particularly early here. My perfect day begins with coffee and a croissant in a square
where water runs from a fountain. Then I take a smaller road towards a village perché for a walk before lunch. Lunch is the main event: a terrace, a view to the horizon, local food, cold rosé and three hours in which nobody is in any kind of rush.
Afterwards, I walk around the village, visit a church or small museum and buy something made locally. Then I go back for an afternoon sleep and read.
In the late afternoon, I swim at the Étang de la Bonde. The day ends with an apéritif and a simple dinner
outside, followed by music in a church, a local festival or a walk through a village that is still animated
because the evening is too beautiful to waste. It is lazy but full. That is the balance I love. Map of the places in this guide
The map below includes every destination named in this guide, excluding hotels. It is designed to show
the difference between the western and eastern Luberon, and the scale of the longer excursions.
Have more questions about the Luberon? Drop Ellie a line at ellie@chironhotelconsulting.com.
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